lalfrey's picture

What Can We Learn By Learning About Hipsters?

By: Lauren Alfrey

Hipsters, we've all seen them, and most of us can probably point them out in a crowd.  At the moment, the term "hipster" calls to mind a certain breed of twenty and thirty somethings that exist in most metropolitan cities in America. Their dress often includes skinny jeans, too-tight flannel shirts, vintage horn-rimmed eyeglasses and ironic facial hair (for men).  They take pride in "fixie" bikes and listening to unsigned indie rock bands.  It's not uncommon to find a hipster in the process of cultivating a tattoo sleeve.

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Yet, the simple exercise of thinking through what represents a hipster is an interesting one.  First, bounding the idea of what makes a hipster is fairly difficult. Aside from these obvious cultural symbols, what do hipsters stand for? What is their ethos? What are their dress and their appropriated cultural symbols rebelling against or supporting?

Asking how the modern hipster came to be begs many questions around the diffusion of cultural meaning via new media technologies, the paradoxes inherent with trying to create a counter-culture within a capitalist model, and whether a true counter-culture is even possible at this moment in Western society given our increasingly globalized world.

In short, investigating how hipsters came to be, and how they have changed as an identifiable group of people, promises to teach us a great deal about the shifts, more generally, in our society.  This is an idea I’m playing with for my master’s thesis (so ahem, expect more blogging on this subject to come).  But before I start down this rabbit hole, humor me please with a simple thought exercise.

How would you define a hipster? The definition, as well as the cultural symbols and the ethos associated with the movement (if you can call it that) changes fairly rapidly.

As a case and point, I'll take you through how the definition, according to UrbanDictionary.com, has changed just within the last four years:

August 16,2004
"The hipster mecca is in williamsburg brooklyn. it's a subculture of kids born in the 80's. it started with mutton chops & buddy holly glasses, but has now progressed progressed into trucker caps, pointy shoes, and the god awful rehash of the mullet...typically, hipsters are "slumming it" on mommy & daddy's dime. a full blown hipster reduces himself by never wearing anti-perspirant & appearing to be poor. drink of choice is rheingold, or pabst blue ribbon beer" [sic].

May 28, 2006
"Listens to bands that you have never heard of. Has hairstyle that can only be described as "complicated." (Most likely achieved by a minimum of one week not washing it.) Probably tattooed. Definitely cooler than you. Reads Black Book, Nylon, and the Styles section of the New York Times. Drinks Pabst Blue Ribbon. Often. Complains. Always denies being a hipster" [sic].

November 22, 2007
"Hipsters are a subculture of men and women typically in their 20's and 30's that value independent thinking, counter-culture, progressive politics, an appreciation of art and indie-rock, creativity, intelligence, and witty banter. The greatest concentrations of hipsters can be found living in the Williamsburg, Wicker Park, and Mission District neighborhoods of major cosmopolitan centers such as New York, Chicago, and San Francisco respectively. Although "hipsterism" is really a state of mind, it is also often intertwined with distinct fashion sensibilities. Hipsters reject the culturally-ignorant attitudes of mainstream consumers, and are often be seen wearing vintage and thrift store inspired fashions, tight-fitting jeans, old-school sneakers, and sometimes thick rimmed glasses" [sic].

And the most recent definition, posted on February 15, 2008:
"Today's 2008 hipster definition has flipped around. the hipster these days is the normal average everyday walmart/starbucks shopper. walmart is bigger than jesus. he drives a normal car, listens to normal mainstream rock and pop, hangs out at the mall and starbucks, eats mcdonalds and applebees.he lives a predictable and forgettable life. because punk and emo have become so prominent in the last few years” [sic].

So…are hipsters simply the 21st century version of a counter-culture made mainstream by capitalist actors who borrowed their symbols of rebellion for a new consumer audience? Is there meaning behind the cultural symbols and styles that hipsters have appropriated from past eras? What can we learn, more broadly, by attending to the socio-economic factors inherent with hipsterdom? Was there ever truly a cultural ethos behind this movement, or is it merely a fashion trend?  My hope is that an investigation around these questions will speak to larger answers about our society: How are the cultural symbols produced and disseminated via new media communication technologies shaping sub-cultures? Who are the actors involved in this process? Is it truly possible to be intentionally "counter" in one's look and dress while doing so through capitalist system of production?

What do you think we can learn by learning about hipsters?
For those of you looking to catch-up up on hipsterdom, check out the "Hipster Olympics" video on YouTube; it escapsulates the current personification of a hipster rather brilliantly.


lalfrey's picture

"not-so-hip"sters

Interesting questions about (the oxymoronic) mainstream counter-culture. I think the concept of a hipster stopped being important to me a little while ago, and I'm actually unclear as to when that happened.

When I was working in the Mission (St. Luke's Hospital on Cesar Chavez and Valencia, to be more precise) I would often lunch w/ my co-workers and hear them throw out all these spiteful comments about the incredible amount of unemployed hipsters that surrounded us at every lunch and/or happy hour outing. At one point, playing the devil's advocate, I asked, "What's so bad about hipsters? Seems like a pretty harmless fashion movement to me, like all aesthetics - it will pass." And one of my smarter coworkers offered up the following.

He mentioned that the idea of a hipster itself isn't a bad thing. He doesn't necessarily believe that all these current hipsters just saw a hipster and decided to be one. He believes that many current hipsters did have an 'alternative' (for lack of a better term) upbringing and set of experiences in their youth, that to them is seen as unique. This led them to an independent mindset regarding society and its norms, fostering a desire to be 'different' and 'thoughtful'. But, just like all humans, there is this need to congregate and have some sense of community. Metropolitan cities, being the diverse urban jungles they tend to be, offer a wide array of communities, including this kind. At some point, maybe even in the aforementioned cities, this unique brand of 'independence' began to congregate. As they recognized what was going on, the members of these small but flourishing communities began to weld together their ideologies and aesthetics. This, I believe, is when hipsterdom was important. It was a counterculture finding itself in the midst of an overpowering culture of capitalism that had nearly homogenized most larger cities.

This, my coworker cited, as what was good about hipsters. Now, he proceeded, they are nothing more than symbolic shells of the former hipster. Hating and liking things not because of their inherent value, but rather doing so because of how its perceived by the mainstream, and its counter-culture counterpart. To decide whether something has a positive or negative influence on one's life based almost entirely on its aesthetic (fixie bikes being a great example... San Francisco - perhaps one of the hilliest cities in the world... and you have a fixed gear bike?) and how its perceived as opposed to its function and actual contribution to one's life... that, to my coworker, didn't make any sense.

sleepcamel's picture

Just a passing comment... it

Just a passing comment... it seems like the "ists" (DCist, SFist, Seattleist, etc) belong in this conversation (as a topic, not participants) because they occupy a really fascinating new media crossover space. Part local journalism, part indie culture blog and, because they drive so much traffic (and advertising), they are particularly conscious of how they balance their image. For instance, just today I saw this post: http://dcist.com/2009/03/about_tonight_301.php Look at the photo. Is it really a coincidence that the Red Stripe and Jever labels are turned towards us, and the Heinie's are facing away? Does it matter?

jmt390's picture

Wow, I absolutely agree.

Wow, I absolutely agree. Last month I wrote a mini critique of hipster culture for a class exercise. Apparently my methodology sucked, because someone in class asked if I was bullied by hipsters and the professor accused me of arrogance and envy. But that's neither here nor there. Being exposed to so many of them in Brooklyn I can't help but notice the irony of a counter-culture group steeped in consumerism (iPods, Urban Outfitters, Brooklyn Industries, Converse etc.). Perhaps this is telling us that counterculture simply isn't possible in today's world.

lalfrey's picture

Thanks for the feedback

Thanks JC, Brad and Jason for your thoughtful reflections and feedback. It's good to know I'm not the only one thinking that there is a there...there, when it comes to hipsters. I'm going to attempt to write my final papers on the subject, so Jason, I'd be curious to know what methodology you used (and maybe we can take the convo onto email). I'm struggling to figure out an entry point for some of these questions myself.

You might be suprised but,

You might be suprised but, yes, I would classify myself as a hipster (which I guess goes against all hipster rules-but hear me out on this, because I'm predicting the NEW hip thing to do will be to proudly proclaim your hipsterdom. It's so hip that it has yet to be realized.) I have the tattoos, the un-kempt hair, the peircings, I have the art degree and the lack of employment to go with it. Someday I hope to own a fixed gear bike. I'm constantly surrounded by girls with too tight pants and ridiculously large glasses, dudes with sleeve tats and mustaches, and the stick thin androgenous wearers of dirty converse sneakers, and I'm ok with that, actually I'm more than ok, I'm proud. I've always been like this, artsy, nerdy, scouring thrift stores for vintage eyewear and records when I was fourteen. Back then this type of thing didn't really help me fit in at my small town high-school, now I would be the coolest chick on the block. I think that most of us in these communities, and while at 24 years of age I may be speaking from a dated point of view, were that kid. we all want to find a sense of community a like minded group of people. So from a very honest perspective I can say, the lifestyle, or at least the basis for it isn't a bad thing. Like I said, I'm currently unemployed and believe me with the job market how it is it's not by choice, but most of the "hipsters" I know do have jobs,while not terribly well paying ones. we shop at thrift stores because it's cheap, we drink pbr because it's cheap, we ride bikes because they're cheaper than public transit and owning a car, and we roll our own smokes because they're cheap, and honestly I rarely wash my hair because it saves me a shit-ton of money on shampoo. now, I know that no one is denying the existence of what we call a hipster in a practical, maybe even honest state, I just want to point out that this state, does still exist. What bothers us some of us old-time hipsters is the capitalization, because this is our fashion sense and lifestyle, and has always been, it's not a marketing gimic. I'm not disagreeing that the idea of what we currently view as a hipster is pretty fucked up, I'm just saying that there's a whole other legitimate community of people that get tangled in this mess. It's a trend like any other trend, I just sleep soundly at night knowing that in this capitalistic society I can sell my old ragged tight-ass paint covered jeans and giant sun glass collection to some rich 17 year old for a whole lot of money.
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